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Mt Aconcagua & Marmolejo

The highest mountain in America and the southernmost 6000

Location:
Argentina & Chile

Height:
6953M/6108M

Length:
22 days

Trip Grade:

Overview

Our program reach two Andes icons, the highest mountain in South America and the Southernmost 6000 in the world, mt Marmolejo (6108masl). We climb Marmolejo to have the best posible acclimatization process before try Aconcagua.

In 8 days in Chile we reach summit in Marmolejo, another day resting in Santiago and another 10 days in the Parque Provincial Aconcagua including 1 extra day to attemp summit in case of bad weather.

Aconcagua is the highest Mountain along the Andes Range and named by the Quechua culture as the White Sentinel, similar to what was called by the Aymara culture who named it The Stone Sentinel. It is placed in Argentina very close to the Chilean capital city of Santiago. Annually it is visited by hundreds of mountaineers from all around the world who are trying to achieve this objective which is without further questions, a great challenge to any mountaineer professional.

Highlight

Acclimaziation in the last huge 6000 of the south of the world “Mt Marmolejo”
Itinerary perfectly designed to conquer the summit of Aconcagua
View of the most important peaks of the Central Andes, as Tupungato, Mercedario and Junkal
Porters are included in Marmolejo to carry the comun gear to high camps, without extra cost
2 days off to replenish energy and wash clothes before climbing Aconcagua
Visit the most famous valley near Santiago “Cajon del Maipo”, where we make a trekking
We will travel by night from Santiago to Mendoza to optimize rest and transfer time
Santiago airport has the best connectivity to airlines of Europe and North America

Expedition’s schema

Program length: 22 days
Max. Altitude: 6959 m / 22615 ft
Location: Mendoza, Argentina / Santiago, Chile
Slope: 4500 m / 14764 ft from Puente del Inca
Season: November to March
Difficulty: This is not a technical track, but it is physically challenging
First ascent: 1897 by Mathias Zubriggen and Edward Fitzgerald (sz)
Expedition Team size: max 9 climbers + the mountain guides

Dates & Prices

Private Service: You choose the best convenience date for you and your group. Price depending on number of people booked.

Itinerary and service (per day)

Day 1: Airport / Hostel transfer

Day 2: Santiago / Baños Morales / Trekking San Francisco Glacier

Day 3: Baños Morales / El Cabrerio / Base camp

Day 4: BC / Camp 1

Day 5: Camp 1 / Camp 2

Day 6: Camp 2 / Camp high

Day 7: Camp high / climb Marmolejo / Camp 2

Day 8: Camp 2 / Base camp

Day 9: Base Camp / Santiago /

Day 10: Resting in Santiago

On this day the members are free to visit santiago and rest. around 18:00 we will have a meeting to load our vehicles and drive by night to Mendoza with all mountain gear, with this we want to avoid lose any luggage in the airport.

Max altitude: 500masl
Lodging: Hostel
Meals: *Breakfast at the Hostal
Transport: No
Scheme: Resting in Santiago, drive to mendoza by night in our vehicules, justr for HME satff and luggage of our members.

Day 11: Santiago / Mendoza / Penitentes

Day 12: Mendoza / Penitentes

Day 13: Penitentes / Confluencia

Day 14: Confluencia / Plaza de Mulas

Day 15: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores / Plaza de Mulas

We’ll trekking to the next camp “Nido de Cóndores”. Then we’ll head back to base camp to spend the night. This is a key process to our expedition because we’ll get to a 5,300 masl and then we’ll head back to sleep at 4.260mts, which is optimal for acclimatisation work.

Max altitude: 5,300masl
Lodging: Mountain tent
Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
Transport: NO
Scheme: Aclimatization trekking, cooking.

Day 16: Plaza de Mulas / Nido de Cóndores

Day 17: Nido de Cóndores / Colera Camp

From this point we’ll be at just one camp to the final camp, Colera Camp. This camp is placed over the 5.900mts. We’ll leave early morning in order to set up this camp and then spend the night at that altitude. This camping is due to modifications according to the lead guide criteria which will take the possibility of reach summit or not from the Nido de Cóndores camp.

Max altitude: 5970masl
Lodging: Mountain tent
Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner.
Transport: No
Scheme: Trekking, camp take-down and up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 18: Colera camp / climb Aconcagua / Colera Camp

Day 19: Extra Summit day Day 20 Colera camp / Plaza de Mulas

Day 21: Plaza de Mulas / Santiago Hostel

Day 22: Hotel / santiago airport / End of our services (OUT)

Includes & Not Includes

Our mountain expeditions in Aconcagua include the following services:

High Mountain guide (Spanish / English )
Mules to carrie the common and personal gear to Plaza de Mulas (BC) and Marmolejo (BC)
Private transportation to climbing areas (4WD or Mini Van)
Transfer airport
1 night in Penitentes mountain refuge
1 night in Baños Morales mountain refuge
4 nights hostel in Santiago
Mountain tents (each one is for 2 persons)
Dinner tent (with table and chairs)
Foam mattress (if you requirement)
Cooking kit
All meals within the expedition (Breakfast, box lunch, diner)
Professional first aids kit
Oxygen tank
Heart rate monitor and oximeter
VHF Radio
Satellite radio
All group equipment; rope, high altitude tent, stove, GPS, etc.
Climbing permit in Marmolejo

Our services don’t include

Meals not descrived in Program (see itinerary)
Personal mountain equipment
Traveling and rescue insurances. We strongly recommend you to get them.
Any other service which wasn’t mentioned above. (restaurant meals, beverages , tips, laundry, etc.)
International and national flights and boarding fees.
Climbing permit in Aconcagua

More Info

Relevant information for the Aconcagua expedition

Additional information:

1 guide every 3 passengers
Satellite phone (fees by minute usage / U$D 6)
2 persons per hotel room.
U$ 400 per person if you want single room, please let us know
U$ 100 per person if you want single tent, please let us know
Hotel lodging includes *Breakfast (see itinerary)
We recommend you travel with small bills
Weather can get as low as -25ºC (-13ºF) in the area

Climbing permit 2011/2012, informational purposes only

Low season U$ 290: 15 November to 30 November and 21 February to 31 March
Middle season U$ 510: 1 December to 14 December and 1 February to 20 February
High season U$ 700: 15 December to 31 January

High Mountain Expedition is NOT responsible for:

Personal services (laundry, snacks, beverages, tips, etc.)
Personal mountain equipment
Expenses in case of rescue or early departure from the expedition.
Delays caused by your flight or any transportation issue which you are responsible for.
Weather changes which may affect the expedition.