Marmolejo

Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

Marmolejo Climbing Expedition is the last 6,000 in the southern world, and is at the Chile-Argentina frontier, right after the Cajon del Maipo valley, in the Region Metropolitana, Chile. Alongside his brother Volcan San Jose they shape a natural wall averaging 6,000 mts height, separating Chile and Argentina.

To perform this challenge, we’ll need mules to carry the equipment to basecamp, which is quite far from our last motorized stop (10km aprox.). From basecamp we’ll carry our equipment ourselves to the altitude camps. During this period of time we’ll take the opportunity to acclimatize. We recommend you to be physically fitted for this one.

Features

• Highlight
  • Is the last huge 6000 of the south of the world
  • Itinerary perfectly designed to connect with Aconcagua expedition
  • View of the most important peaks of the Central Andes, as Tupungato, Aconcagua and El plomo
  • Visit the most famous valley near Santiago “Cajon del Maipo”, where we make a trekking
  • Santiago airport has the best connectivity to airlines of Europe and North America

Expedition’s schema for Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

• • Length on field: 7 days
  • Altitude: 6108 m / 20040 ft
  • Location: Santiago, Chile
  • Slope: 3700 m / 12140 ft from El Morro
  • Season: November to March
  • Difficulty: This is not a technical track, but it is physically demanding. It requires crampons and ice-axe (piolet)
  • First ascent: 1928 Albrecht Maas, Hermann Sattler y Sebastián Kruckel
  • Expedition team size: 7 climbers + guides

Full Itinerary per day

Includes

Our Marmolejo expeditions include the following services:

• Mountain guide (Spanish / English )
• Mules to carry the common and personal gear from and to base camp
• Private transportation to climbing areas (4WD or Mini Van)
• Mountain tents (one each two climbers)
• Dinner tent (with table and chairs) base camp only, min 3 climbers
• Cooking kit
• All meals within the expedition (Breakfast, box lunch, dinner)
• Professional first aids kit
• Heart rate monitor and oximeter
• VHF Radio
• Satellite radio
• All group equipment; rope, ice-screw, compass, stove, GPS, etc.

Our services don’t include

• • Hotel night in Santiago
  • Personal mountain equipment
  • Traveling and rescue insurances. We strongly recommend you to get them
  • Any other service which wasn’t mentioned above. (restaurant meals, beverages, tips, laundry, etc.)
  • International and national flights and boarding fees

More Info

Relevant information for the Marmolejo expedition

Additional information:

• • 1 guide every 2 climbers
  • U$ 160 per person if you want single tent, please let us know
  • Porters are available (ask the consultant for price)
  • Porters should be stay every day of the expedition with us
  • Porters carry max 15 kilos
  • Climbing permit are free of cost
  • Weather can get as low as -25ºC (-13ºF) in the area

High Mountain Expedition is NOT responsible for:

• • Personal services (laundry, snacks, beverages, tips, etc.)
  • Personal mountain equipment
  • Expenses in case of rescue or early departure from the expedition.
  • Delays caused by your flight or any transportation issue which you are responsible for.
  • Weather changes which may affect the expedition.

Gear List for Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

In order to avoid any injury we strongly recommend to all the expedition members to have the mountain equipment described below.

Upper body parts

• • Sun hat
  • Wool hat
  • Balaclava / ski mask
  • 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts (or similar)
  • fleece windstopper (or similar)
  • 1 waterproof jacket (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
  • Down feather parka with hood
  • Polypropylene gloves
  • Waterproof gloves
  • Down feather mittens (Tº -20 or lower)

Down body parts

• • 2 polypropylene long underwear (or similar)
  • 1 trekking pants
  • 1 windproof pants (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
  • 2 pairs thin socks (Liners)
  • 2 pairs of thermal socks
  • Gaiters
  • Sandals
  • Trekking boots (approach)
  • Mountain boots (double plastic or leather boots)

Personal equipment

• • Ice axe (70 cm or longer)
  • Crampones
  • 2 carabineers
  • 1 harness
  • 2 prusik cord
  • Trekking stick (telescopic)
  • Sleeping bag (Tº -15ºC)
  • Inflatable mattress
  • Expedition backpack (80 liters)
  • Daypack (40 liters)
  • Headlamp (and extra batteries)
  • Sunglasses (category 3 or 4)
  • Goggles
  • 2 bottles of water (1 liter each)
  • Thermos flask (1 liter)
  • Sunscreen (SPF 50)
  • Lips sunscreen (SPF 30) (Blistex)
  • Whistle, emergency mirror, and pocket knife
  • Toiletries
  • Digital camera, a book, mp3, Binoculars. [optional]
  • Personal repair kit

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