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Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

El Ultimo 6000

Location:
Santiago, Chile

Height:
6108M

Length:
8 days

Trip Grade:

Overview for Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

Marmolejo Climbing Expedition is the last 6,000 in the southern world, and is at the Chile-Argentina frontier, right after the Cajon del Maipo valley, in the Region Metropolitana, Chile. Alongside his brother Volcan San Jose they shape a natural wall averaging 6,000 mts height, separating Chile and Argentina.

To perform this challenge, we’ll need mules to carry the equipment to basecamp, which is quite far from our last motorized stop (10km aprox.). From basecamp we’ll carry our equipment ourselves to the altitude camps. During this period of time we’ll take the opportunity to acclimatize. We recommend you to be physically fitted for this one.

Features

Highlight
- Is the last huge 6000 of the south of the world
- Itinerary perfectly designed to connect with Aconcagua expedition
- View of the most important peaks of the Central Andes, as Tupungato, Aconcagua and El plomo
- Porters are included in Marmolejo to carry the comun gear to high camps, without extra cost
- Visit the most famous valley near Santiago “Cajon del Maipo”, where we make a trekking
- Santiago airport has the best connectivity to airlines of Europe and North America

Expedition’s schema for Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

- Length on field: 8 days
- Altitude: 6108 m / 20040 ft
- Location: Santiago, Chile
- Slope: 3700 m / 12140 ft from El Morro
- Season: November to March
- Difficulty: This is not a technical track, but it is physically demanding. It requires crampons and ice-axe (piolet)
- First ascent: 1928 Albrecht Maas, Hermann Sattler y Sebastián Kruckel
- Expedition team size: 9 climbers + guides

Dates and Prices

Open Expedition:

This expedition has pre-established departure dates and you share it with other people, the groups consist of a maximum of 6 climbers plus the guides.

Departures:

Private Service: You choose the best convenience date for you and your group. Price depending on number of people booked.

Full Itinerary per day

Day 1: Santiago / Baños Morales / Trekking San Francisco Glacier (IN)

We set out from Santiago towards Baños Morales. Then, we’ll be walking at an altitude of 2500masl, visiting the natural monument El Morado, where we will be able to admire Aguas Panimavidas, Laguna Morales and the glaciers on Mt. San Francisco. A beautiful walk across a very beautiful valley intended to prepare our bodies for the altitudes we will be facing later on.

- Max altitude: 2500 masl
- Lodging: Refuge
- Meals: box-lunch, diner
- Transport: 4WD or Mini Van
- Scheme: Trekking El Morado National Park, acclimatization.

Day 2: Baños Morales / El Cabrerio / Base camp

Day 3: BC / Camp 1

We move to camp1 (Plateau 4100m), place where we’ll be able to see for the first time Marmolejo’s summit. This is, without any question, the hardest day in our expedition, besides the summit day.

- Max altitude: 4100 masl
- Lodging: Mountain tent
- Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, diner
- Transport: No
- Scheme: Trekking approach to camp 1 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 4: Camp 1 / Camp 2

After an energy replenishing breakfast, we depart in order to set up our camp at 4900masl. We should be feeling just fine, already acclimatized. This movement shouldn’t take more than 5 hours at a very relaxed pace.

- Max altitude: 4900 masl
- Lodging: Mountain tent
- Meals: Breakfast, box-lunch, dinner
- Transport: No
- Scheme: Trekking approach to camp 2 with expedition bag-pack on, camp set-up, cooking, acclimatization.

Day 5: Camp 2 / High Camp

Day 6: High Camp / climb Marmolejo / Camp 2

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Day 8: Base Camp / Santiago / End of our services (OUT)

Includes

Our Marmolejo expeditions include the following services:

1 refuge night in Baños Morales
Mountain guide (Spanish / English )
Mules to carry the common and personal gear
Private transportation to climbing areas (4WD or Mini Van)
Mountain tents (one each two climbers)
Dinner tent (with table and chairs) base camp only, min 2 climbers
Cooking kit
foam mattress
All meals within the expedition (Breakfast, box lunch, diner)
Professional first aids kit
Heart rate monitor and oximeter
VHF Radio
Satellite radio
All group equipment; rope, ice-screw, compass, stove, GPS, etc.

Our services don’t include

- Hotel night in Santiago
- Personal mountain equipment
- Traveling and rescue insurances. We strongly recommend you to get them
- Any other service which wasn’t mentioned above. (restaurant meals, beverages, tips, laundry, etc.)
- International and national flights and boarding fees

More Info

Relevant information for the Marmolejo expedition

Additional information:

- 1 guide every 3 climbers
- Satellite phone (fees by minute usage / U$ 6 p/m )
- U$ 100 per person if you want single tent, please let us know
- Porters are available (U$D 90 per day)
- Porters should be stay every day of the expedition with us
- Total porters days = 8 days /(U$D 720)
- Porters carry max 25 kilos
- Climbing permit are free of cost
- Weather can get as low as -25ºC (-13ºF) in the area

High Mountain Expedition is NOT responsible for:

- Personal services (laundry, snacks, beverages, tips, etc.)
- Personal mountain equipment
- Expenses in case of rescue or early departure from the expedition.
- Delays caused by your flight or any transportation issue which you are responsible for.
- Weather changes which may affect the expedition.

Gear List for Marmolejo Climbing Expedition

In order to avoid any injury we strongly recommend to all the expedition members to have the mountain equipment described below.

Upper body parts

- Sun hat
- Wool hat
- Balaclava / ski mask
- 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts (or similar)
- fleece windstopper (or similar)
- 1 waterproof jacket (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
- Down feather parka with hood
- Polypropylene gloves
- Waterproof gloves
- Down feather mittens (Tº -20 or lower)

Down body parts

- 2 polypropylene long underwear (or similar)
- 1 trekking pants
- 1 windproof pants (Gore Tex, Triple Point, or similar)
- 2 pairs thin socks (Liners)
- 2 pairs of thermal socks
- Gaiters
- Sandals
- Trekking boots (approach)
- Mountain boots (double plastic or leather boots)

Personal equipment

- Ice axe (70 cm or longer)
- Crampones
- 2 carabineers
- 1 harness
- 2 prusik cord
- Trekking stick (telescopic)
- Sleeping bag (Tº -15ºC)
- Inflatable mattress
- Expedition backpack (80 liters)
- Daypack (40 liters)
- Headlamp (and extra batteries)
- Sunglasses (category 3 or 4)
- Goggles
- 2 bottles of water (1 liter each)
- Thermos flask (1 liter)
- Sunscreen (SPF 50)
- Lips sunscreen (SPF 30) (Blistex)
- Whistle, emergency mirror, and pocket knife
- Toiletries
- Digital camera, a book, mp3, Binoculars. [optional]
- Personal repair kit